Memories of a National Lafayette 98

pelstate98And a bit we learned….

If at all Possible -Stay at the host hotel. You see more people, more fun and don‘t waste time commuting!

Get a room key for each person! Just Trust me. Check out the boutique, plant sale & auction items EARLY.

Get up early for the bus scramble. No assigned/reserved seats so “First come first on”. Get your group together and grab a bus to get seats together! If one of your group moves slow, save them a seat but tell them so they’ll find you. And busses will leave on time.

Get Breakfast really early or do take out.

No purses or bags to slow me down in the gardens. ID in my pocket with pad & pen. Tiny purse on bus. And don’t forget sun protection.

Take a small camera or video. But move fast & DON’T MISS YOUR BUS!

Food is great but you may never get to make these friends again so visit and view while in the gardens.

Sleep when I get home.

Visit with everyone I can and listen for good info.

Dress light and comfy shoes! Definitely no daytime fashion show. Save that for dinner. Get to banquets early.

We are the host club so talk to people. Introduce yourself even if you’re shy, they’ll be glad you did (they’re shy too). Just say your name and that we’re glad they came. You’ll be surprised and gifted with a return smile. And we all can ask about their daylilies, right?

But most of all, enjoy it!

Muriel

How to Grow Daylilies

If ever there was a competition for the “perfect perennial,” daylilies would be at the top of the list. Nearly carefree, pest and disease resistant, tough and adaptable, drought tolerant, and gorgeous, daylilies are perfect whether you’re planting a show garden or naturalizing an eroding hillside.

Here are some tips for selecting, planting, and caring for daylilies.

About Daylilies

Daylilies are clumping perennials with fibrous roots. They are not true lilies but instead belong to the genus Hemerocallis, which means “beauty for a day.” And while it’s true that daylily blooms last only one day, they make up for it by producing hundreds of blooms throughout the season.

With over 35,000 cultivated varieties of daylilies, the choices are mind-boggling! Planning a daylily garden can be great fun – I know one gardener who sought out daylily varieties named for her grandchildren, while other gardeners collect varieties with particularly unusual or surprising blossoms. Visit a daylily farm, or consult a mail-order catalogue, for interesting daylilies for your own collection.

When selecting daylilies for your garden, you have many choices, including:

    • Flower color: All shades of yellow, cream, orange, pink, red, and purple are available; along with multicolored varieties that can be bicolor, dotted, banded, edged, or tipped.
    • lower type: Daylily flowers come in various sizes and have many shapes, including circular, triangular, star-shaped, spider-shaped, and ruffled blossoms with single, double, or triple petals.
    • Bloom habit: Both diurnal (day blooming) and nocturnal (night blooming) varieties are available.
    • Bloom time: Early to late summer, with classifications including Early, Midseason, and Late. Ever-blooming varieties are also available. In general, each plant will bloom for about a month, so choose a variety of bloom times for all-summer color.
    • Foliage habit: Dormant (dying to the ground in the winter), Evergreen, and Semi-Evergreen types are available.
    • Size: From 6 inches to 4 feet in height.

Growing Conditions

    • Hardiness: Zones 3-9, depending on variety.
    • Soil: Daylilies will grow in most any soil but bloom better if compost is added to improve drainage and nutrients.
    • Light: Full sun (6 hours per day).
    • Moisture: Drought-tolerant, but blooms better with an inch of water a week.
    • Space: Daylilies don’t like competition, and the clumps quickly spread to fill in large areas, so give them plenty of space.

Planting Daylilies

It’s hard to go wrong when planting daylilies, but here’s how to get the best results:

    • You can plant them any time the soil is workable, although spring and fall are less stressful to the plants.
    • Daylilies planted during the growing season might not bloom until next summer.
    • Add some compost to the planting hole, and space plants 1-2 feet apart.
    • Position the crown of the plant no more than an inch below the soil level.
    • Water well, add some mulch, and watch them grow!

Caring for Daylilies

Again, daylilies are almost mistake-proof, but here are some tips for getting the most out of your daylilies:

    • Apply compost, rotted manure, or balanced fertilizer in the spring when growth starts. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers – they’ll encourage leaves instead of blooms.
    • Use mulch to keep weeds away and to hold in moisture.
    • Deadhead your daylilies by cutting off the entire flower stalk (called a “scape”) to encourage more blooms and to prevent seeds from forming. Daylily seeds do not produce the same variety as the hybrid parent plant, so allowing them to self-sow will result in a mix of blooms (and likely fewer blooms) next year.
    • If your daylily foliage looks straggly in the heat of summer, clip it back to about 1 foot high, to encourage new leaves.
    • Cut off dead foliage in the late fall or early spring.
    • Daylilies are pretty good at crowding out weeds, but remove any as they sprout.

Dividing Daylilies

Daylilies quickly spread into larger clumps, and eventually they become so crowded that they do not bloom as well. You may want to divide your daylilies every few years, particularly if you notice fewer blooms.

Here are some tips for dividing them:

    • You can divide daylilies anytime during the growing season, but to ensure blooms next year, divide your daylilies right after they flower.
    • For best results, dig up the entire clump of daylilies, cut the foliage back to about 6 inches, and pull or cut the clump into pieces with a sharp knife. Each piece should have several stems (or fans of leaves) with roots attached.
    • For very crowded beds, you can also use a sharp shovel to divide off parts of plants without digging them up, although you’ll have less control over the size and quality of the division.
    • Plant the divided pieces in soil amended with compost, just as you would plant a potted daylily. Water well until the new plants are established. Throw away any pieces that seem unhealthy – don’t worry, in time you’ll have more daylilies than you know what to do with!

Source: http://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-grow-daylilies/

Wild Edibles: The Daylily

The daylily (hemerocallis fulva) is a very common ornamental plant that has found a home in many yards and gardens throughout the United States. Despite its common occurrence, few realize the year-round food potential of this plant.

In this article I’ll go into detail about how to identify, process and eat these delicious plants.

How to Identify Daylilies

Before you attempt to eat any wild edible you need to be absolutely certain you can identify it with 100% certainty. Luckily, daylilies, when in flower, have no poisonous look-a-likes. But to those that only see a “wall of green” out there, everything looks alike. In that case here are the 4 key things to look out for when properly identifying daylilies:

6-petaled flower that faces
upwards.
These are typically orange but some have been bred to be different colors. In all daylilies the flower only lasts a single day (hence the name :))
Leafless flower stalk that is about 3 feet tall. The stalk that supports the flower head will have no leaves on it. This is a good comparison to the Blue Flag Iris which is poisonous and has leaves on its flower stalk.
Light-green basal leaves that are long and sword-like with pointed tips.
Root is a tangle of small tubers. The tubers are around pea size to about the size of a large almond.

If you can positively identify each of these 4 attributes above, it’s pretty certain that your looking at a daylily.

How to Eat a Daylily

Eating in the Different Seasons

The great thing about daylilies is that there is always something to eat from this plant all year round. In the late Fall and Winter (as well as all year round) you can eat the tubers (root nodules), in the Spring the young shoots are edible and delicious as a stir fry, and in the Summer you can eat the flower buds and the flowers.

I would recommend waiting until Summer to eat these as it will have all of the attributes available to make for an accurate identification. Since it’s a perennial plant (lives longer than two years) you can then come back to the stand during the following springtime to get the young shoots.

If you do decide to gather them in the Spring, care must be taken not to mistake them with some of the poisonous irises and lilies that emerge around the same time. One of the best ways to identify them is to unearth the young shoot, roots and all. You’re looking to find small potato-like tubers with tiny hair-like roots attached to them (see the picture I took in the section above). If you unearth one long, thick rhizome without tubers or a single bulb, then you’ve got the wrong plant.

What Parts to Eat

The edible portions of the plant (tubers, young shoots, flower buds and flowers) can all be eaten raw. However, there have been reports that some people react with nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea — especially if they eat a bunch of it). Cooking it is supposed to help reduce these effects. Just try out a small amount and see if you have any symptoms. All my friends and family who try this plant have never experienced this.

Tubers: You’ll want to remove the hair-like roots and thick rhizomes. Wash and clean them and boil them in water for about 15 minutes for best taste (you can eat them raw). Some people like to peel them like potatoes, however I find the skin is just fine to eat along with the starchy centers — without the hassle. In this picture I’ve peeled some and left others with the skin.
Flowers: The flower have a pleasant sweet taste when eaten raw and also can be dipped in batter and fried.
Day-old Flowers: The wilted flowers (above-left in the picture) can be reconstituted in soups.
Flowers Buds: Both the flower buds about to bloom (bottom left) and those that still have a while (bottom right) are excellent in your favorite stir fry recipe.
Young Shoots: The young shoots are excellent raw, in salads or with dip. They are also great in stir fry.
The benefit of learning wild edibles is that it can greatly improve and extend your long-term food storage. Here’s an example of using some of my stored rice with some fresh daylily flowers, stir-fried buds, and boiled daylily tubers. Yumm!

Daylily Nutrition Information

Daylily flowers and tubers are high in protein and oils. The flower buds are good sources of beta carotene and vitamin C.

Other Notes

Although daylilies are an excellent food source, you should be aware that research done in Chinese laboratories have reported that there are potentially toxic substances in the roots which may be cumulative. Keep in mind that people have been eating these plants for centuries without being poisoned so use them with respect and in moderation.


Caring For Daylilies: How To Grow Daylilies

By Jackie Rhoades

Growing daylilies (Hemerocallis) has been a pleasure for gardeners for centuries. From the 15 or so original species found in the Orient and Central Europe, we now have approximately 35,000 hybrids from which to choose and more are coming every year. Older, traditional plants die back during winter, but there are new semi- and evergreen varieties.

While their beautiful flowers last only one day, a mature clump can produce 200-400 blooms over the course of a month or more. Planting daylilies as single specimens or en masse as a ground cover for a slope, these lovelies will make a welcome addition to any garden, but are of particular joy to the weekend gardener who simply doesn’t have time for fussier plantings. Caring for daylilies is so easy and these plants are so hardy, that some seem to even thrive on neglect!

Planting Daylilies

Although early spring or early fall are the best time for planting daylilies, you can plant them successfully as long as you can dig the hole. Caring for daylilies begins with planting. If your soil is sandy or heavy clay, amend it with plenty of organic matter. In discussing how to grow daylilies, it should also be noted that they prefer slightly acid soil, but again, are adaptable.

Choose a site where your growing daylilies will receive at least six hours of sun. Morning sun is best, particularly in warmer areas where the blazing afternoon sun can scorch the leaves. Here again, these hardy plants will grow with less, but blooming won’t be as prolific.

Cut the foliage back to 6 inches. Dig your hole twice as wide and deep as the root spread. Place the plant so the crown (the part where the roots meet the stem) is about 1 inch below ground level. Fill in the hole with your amended soil and water well. After planting daylilies, keep them well watered for a few weeks until the roots are established.

Daylilies are vigorous growers and can be divided every three or four years. Because of the number of varieties, they make great specimens to trade with neighbors and friends.

Information on Caring for Daylilies 

How to grow daylilies? It would be easy to say stick them in the ground and walk away, but there are a few things you can do when caring for daylilies to get the most out of these tough growers. A basic 10-10-10 fertilizer in the spring and during bloom is all you need, though gardeners who specialize in daylily care will recommend more often. Once established, these hardy plants will tolerate drought. Water as needed.

Once up and growing, daylilies perform best if you remove the seed pods. Leaving them on the plant will retard the following year’s bloom. In early spring, daylily care consists of removing the dead leaves from the surrounding ground and weeding. A cover of mulch will keep the weeds down though it isn’t necessary for the plant itself. Once full grown, a daylily’s leaves are so thick, they tend to shade out surrounding weeds.

Disease is rare among the varieties of daylily. Care should be taken, however, when it comes to aphids or thrips and usually the problem begins with other garden plants first. An application of all-purpose insecticide, whether organic or chemical, or a strong spray of water usually takes care of the problem.

Now that you know how to grow daylilies and how easy caring for daylilies is, it’s time to ask the neighbors for donations or to purchase a few from your local garden center or catalogue. I guarantee you’ll be glad you did.


Read more at Gardening Know How: Caring For Daylilies: How To Grow Daylilies http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/daylily/growing-daylilies.htm

How to Keep Stella de Oro Daylilies Blooming All Season

Daylily gardeners were thrilled when the first reblooming daylily plant hit the market in the 1970s. Stella de Oro, created by Walter Jablonski in 1975, was an immediate hit not just for its new and rich yellow-gold color, but for its reblooming habit.

While most daylilies bloom only for a short time during the growing season, leaving behind a ragged mass of long, grassy foliage, Stella de Oro blooms continuously, that is, with the proper maintenance. I’ve been growing Stellas for five years, but it took the first two of those years to learn the craft of keeping them blooming all season long: deadheading.

When my daylilies begin to bloom in late spring, I am on the spent blossoms like a beagle on a fox. In one day this season I removed 167 faded blossoms from a planting that measured only six feet long by two feet wide. Two days later, I removed 285 spent blossoms from the same planting. Yes, I counted them all.

Without removing the spent flowers throughout the growing season, the Stella de Oro daylily plants will become a sea of ugly greens and dull, dead, brown sticks with few to no blooms.

Deadheading Is the Key to Continuous Stella de Oro Blooming

Deadheading is the practice of removing old blossoms before they have a chance to produce seeds. It is a form of pruning that encourages flowering plants to put their energies into producing more blossoms, thereby promoting an extended display of form and color in the garden.

Without deadheading, re-blooming daylily plants put their energies into producing seed instead of blossoms, leaving you with a ratty display of plant material. However, there is a right and a wrong way to deadhead daylilies. First, let’s do a quick lesson of the parts of the daylily that are involved in deadheading.

Parts of the daylily.
Parts of the daylily. | Source

Know Your Stella de Oro Anatomy

Scape

This is the stalk that produces the daylily blooms. One Stella de Oro scape may produce as many as a dozen buds.

Bud

The bud is the immature flower. For the most part, only one bud on every scape will bloom per day, although a scape will not necessarily produce a fully formed flower every day. In other words, if there are eight buds on a scape, the scape may produce blossoms over a two-week period or longer.

Flower Stem

The part of the plant that attaches a daylily flower to the scape is the flower stem, or pedicel.

One-day-old Blossom

If you haven’t grown daylilies before, you may mistake a one-day old blossom for a bud about to bloom. Both are similar in color and shape; however, the old blossom will not have the fresh aspect of a bud about to bloom and the tips of the petals will show a watery, translucent appearance. Don’t worry though. With practice, you will learn quickly!

Two-day-old Blossom

This one is easy to spot. It’s completely withered and dry. Three-day old blossoms look much the same, only more withered. Both are still attached to the plant, but without deadheading, the spent petals will drop off the scape and create a mess under the greens. Worse, these older dropping petals will be a sure sign that the plant is producing seed and taking the plant’s energy away from blossoming.

Ovary

This slightly swollen area at the bottom of the flower is where seed will be produced if fertilization is successful.

Exhibit 1a: The Ovary With Spent Blossom Still Attached

A 2-day-old spent, fertilized blossom showing the bulge of the developing ovary.
A 2-day-old spent, fertilized blossom showing the bulge of the developing ovary. |Source

Exhibit 1b: The Developing Ovary With Spent Blossom Removed

The ovary, with the spent blossom removed to reveal the early swelling that means seed development is in progress.
The ovary, with the spent blossom removed to reveal the early swelling that means seed development is in progress. | Source

How to Deadhead Stellas for Continuous Bloom

Deadheading a daylily plant means removing both a spent blossom and its ovary from the scape by detaching the blossom from its flower stem or detaching the flower stem from the scape.

Deadheading Methods

1. Snapping or Pinching Off

You can pinch through the flower stem with your thumb and index finger or snap the flower stem off the scape in a quick, downward motion. When you need to deadhead your way through 285 spent blossoms, snapping and pinching make the most sense. However, until you’re well-practiced with these techniques, you will be more likely to damage the scape and dislodge neighboring immature buds.

2. Cutting

You can use a small, sharp pair of scissors to cut through the flower stem. This method is more time-consuming but causes less damage to the scape and its remaining buds.

Deadheading Tips

1. Don’t Let the Dry, Withered, Oldest Petals Fool You

You will find that the withered petals of two- and three-day-old spent blossoms come away more easily than those of one-day-old spent blossoms. In fact, when touched, the older faded petals almost fall away by themselves, but the ovary is left behind, still attached to the flower stem. The ovary must be removed, by snapping, pinching, or cutting, to prevent the production of seed and encourage new Stella de Oro scape and bud growth.

2. Plan to Deadhead at Least Every Third Day

Every other day is best to make sure you nip the ovaries in the bud, so to speak, but you will get into your own rhythm based on your finickiness and schedule. Try not to panic at the thought of this effort, because after the first riotous weeks of blossom production, things will slow down and you won’t be removing hundreds of faded blooms every two days. Only dozens, perhaps.

Video: Deadheading Daylilies

Exhibit 2a: Stella de Oro Planting Before Deadheading

The full, fresh blooms of the day are lost among the one- and two-day-old spent blossoms. Overall, a quite unkempt appearance.
The full, fresh blooms of the day are lost among the one- and two-day-old spent blossoms. Overall, a quite unkempt appearance. | Source

Exhibit 2b: Stella de Oro Planting After Deadheading (300 Deadheads Later)

Now, each fresh blossom is showcased only by buds-in-waiting and fresh green growth. Gone are the wilted and faded, sad and sorry spent flowers.
Now, each fresh blossom is showcased only by buds-in-waiting and fresh green growth. Gone are the wilted and faded, sad and sorry spent flowers. | Source

Stella de Oro and Other Daylily Variety FAQs and Information

Are Stella de Oro Daylilies Edible?

Some say yes, definitely, and some say yes but with caution. Some even say no. If you have never eaten daylilies before and would like to eat your Stella de Oros, you should know that many people eat them with no ill side effects, while others believe they are harmful to humans and other animals. Here’s an article on the edible daylily dispute for some more information.

Does a Daylily Really Only Last for One Day?

Gardeners in temperate regions know that the shortest-lived blossoms in the garden belong to members of the genus Hemerocallis and are commonly called daylilies. The daylily flower lasts only for a day, hence the name. At the beginning of its day, the daylily bud unfurls to show its full form and color, but by the next day, the flower has wilted and faded.

Why Do I See Stella de Oro Spelled So Many Different Ways?

You may have noticed while shopping for Stella de Oro daylilies that the spelling is not consistent. You may see Stella d’oro, Stella doro, and other variations. The person who originally created the hybrid, Walter Jablonski, also had the honor of naming it. He chose the name Stella de Oro. While the name looks like it might be Italian or Spanish, it’s actually neither (or both)! Stella means star in Italian, and de Oro means of gold in Spanish.

Obviously, the name has been misspelled every which way and now one of the most common spellings is Stella d’Oro, which actually corrects the name to what it would be if it were all Italian. There’s a section in this article that goes a little more in-depth into the linguistic background of the plant.

Is Stella de Oro the Only Everblooming Daylily?

Although Stella de Oro is the most popular daylily (re-blooming or not) in the world, it is no longer the only re-blooming variety. Take a look at Just Plum Happy (rose-pink and purple), Happy Returns (lemon yellow), When My Sweetheart Returns (lemon cream and rose, with ruffles) and more re-bloomers. (PDF document.)

Where Can I Find More Information About Planting and Caring for Stella de Oro?

Here are two resources that have good information on becoming a daylily master. The third link is a bonus article about the history of the Stella de Oro variety.

    • General Daylily Cultivation Information
    • Specifics for Stella de Oro Cultivation
    • CUTTINGS: Hybridizers Create Vigorous Day-Lily World

Source: https://dengarden.com/gardening/How-To-Keep-Stella-De-Oro-Daylilies-Blooming-All-Season-Long

Easy to grow Daylilies add beauty to your garden with little care

Plant Daylilies to attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Beginners learn quickly, and the old pros know. An investment in Daylilies pays great dividends. Foliage that looks great all season, flowers in a rainbow of colors, no special care and now, many that reward you with both a spring and fall season of bloom. “Reblooming Daylilies” are just that. Big bloom during regular Daylily season in late spring, and then bloom off and on for the rest of the season, usually with a burst of bloom before fall.


Source: http://www.americanmeadows.com/perennials/daylily

How to Grow and Care for Daylily Plants

Hemerocallis

Daylilies produce an abundance of flowers which open over a long period of time.
They are useful in the perennial flower border, as a garden centerpiece,
or any corner of the garden which needs to be brightened up.
Day lilies make beautiful, long lasting flower bouquets.

Your Daylily will grow to form a very large clump in a matter of just a few years.
A well established clump is capable of producing as many as 400 flowers in a single season!
Depending on the variety, each Daylily plant will bloom for thirty to fourty days beginning in early summer. By selecting and planting several different cultivars, it’s easy to have continuous show of blooms throughout the entire summer and extending into the fall months.

There are literally hundreds of different types of Daylilies in cultivation,
They are available in many sizes, colors, shades, and there are even a few fragrant, nocturnal varieties.
A nocturnal Daylily? Hmmmmmm…….)

Growing Requirements for Daylily Plants

For the best quality flowers, Daylily plants should be grown in full sun,
but they will tolerate light shade, especially in hot climates.
Daylilies grow best in slightly acidic (pH 6 to 6.5), well drained soil
that is rich in compost and other organic matter.

Daylilies will tolerate a certain amount of drought, but they perform best
when they receive a thorough, deep watering of an inch of water or more each week.
More frequent watering may be necessary if they are planted in sandy soils.
A top-dressing of manure, compost, or a complete fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio
of 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 each spring is very beneficial.
A second application of a low nitrogen fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 3-12-12
should be applied in the late summer or early fall.

Remove the spent flowers regularly, unless you intend to collect seeds from your plant.
Allowing seeds to develop weakens the plant and will decrease the number of flowers next year.

Take precautions to protect new growth from slugs and snails!

Planting your Daylily

Daylily plants need to consume quite a bit of food and water to produce such a great flower show,
so they shouldn’t be planted too close to trees or shrubs which would compete for the moisture and nutrients.

Prepare the planting area by digging a hole 50% larger in diameter than the root ball of your plant
and down down at least a foot to loosen the soil.
Mix in compost, well rotted manure, sand, or peat moss thoroughly, then form a mound in the center of the hole.
Set the plant in place with the roots spread on all sides of the mound, at the depth at which it was originally growing.
Never plant Daylilies so that the crown (where foliage and roots join) is more than an inch deep.

Add the soil around the roots, firming it as you go.
When the hole is half filled with soil, water it very well to
insure good soil to root contact, and then add the remaining soil.
Firm the soil again, leaving a slight depression around the perimeter to act as a reservoir.
Water thoroughly.

A good mulch of wood chips or bark will help to preserve the moisture in the summer,
as well as helping to control the weeds all year long.

Propagating Daylily Plants and Growing them from Seed

Daylilies should be divided every three to four years.
The best time to transplant or divide plants is in early spring
or immediately after they finish flowering.
Dig the entire plant up and gently pull the leaf fans apart,
with each division having a minimum of 3 fans. Replant divisions 18″-36″ apart.
(Newly divided plants may not flower the first summer)

Daylily seeds require 6 weeks of cold stratification before germination.
In cold winter regions, the seeds can be planted directly
in the garden in late fall or early spring.

If you want to start Daylily seeds indoors, place the seeds in moistened
growing medium and store them in the refrigerator for six weeks.
After chilling, maintain a temperature in the growing medium of 60°-70°
until germination, which can take anywhere from 3-7 weeks.


Source: http://www.thegardenhelper.com/daylily.html

Daylily: Hemerocallis

Daylilies are so easy to grow you’ll often find them growing in ditches and fields, escapees from gardens. And yet they look so delicate, producing glorious trumpet-shape blooms in myriad colors. In fact, there are some 50,000 named hybrid cultivars in a range of flower sizes (the minis are very popular), forms, and plant heights. Some are fragrant.

The flowers are borne on leafless stems. Although each bloom lasts but a single day, superior cultivars carry numerous buds on each scape so bloom time is long, especially if you deadhead daily. The strappy foliage may be evergreen or deciduous.

Shown above: ‘Little Grapette’ daylily


Source: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plant-dictionary/perennial/daylily/

Daylily

Few plants are as rugged, widely adapted, or versatile as daylilies. And with more than 13,000 cultivars available, there’s a size and flower color for every garden.

About This Plant

Plant breeders continue to expand the color palette available in daylilies, which now includes yellow, orange, red, white, and purple flowers. Varieties with muliticolored blooms, often with a contrasting “eye,” or center, are increasingly popular. Most daylilies have a distinct, three- to four-week bloom period in early to late summer, although some varieties continue to bloom sporadically all season long. Individual flowers last just one day but new ones open daily for the duration of the bloom time. Foliage height ranges from 1 to 4 feet, depending on variety. Flower stalks on the tallest varieties can reach 6 feet. Flowers are edible.

Special Features

Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Tolerates dry soil

Site Selection

Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. In areas with hot summers, light afternoon shade will keep brightly colored flowers from fading.

Planting Instructions

Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.

Care

Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Avoid excessive fertilizing as this will inhibit flower production. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Remove individual spent flowers daily and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by. Divide plants every three to four years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.


Source: http://garden.org/learn/articles/view/2045/

What is a daylily?

The scientific name for daylily is Hemerocallis, most recently considered to belong in the plant family Hemerocallidaceae. Previously, many older works placed daylilies in the Lily family, Liliaceae. Notice that the preferred spelling is “daylily” as one word. Many dictionaries spell it as two words. The word Hemerocallis is derived from two Greek words meaning “beauty” and “day,” referring to the fact that each flower lasts only one day. To make up for this, there are many flower buds on each daylily flower stalk, and many stalks in each clump of plants, so, the flowering period of a clump is usually several weeks long. And, many cultivars have more than one flowering period.  

Why is the daylily the perfect perennial?

The daylily is sometimes referred to as the perfect perennial because it is:

  • Available in a rainbow of colors and a variety of shapes and sizes.
  • Able to survive with very little care in a wide range of climates.
  • Suitable for all types of landscapes.
  • Drought tolerant when necessary, with relatively few pest and disease problems in most gardens. See descriptions of pests and diseases that may be encountered .
  • Adaptable to various soil and light conditions.
  • Known to bloom from late spring until autumn.

Where did daylilies originate?

The genus Hemerocallis is native to Asia. Since the early 1930s, hybridizers in the United States and England have made great improvements in daylilies. Originally, the only colors were yellow, orange, and fulvous red. Today, we have colors ranging from near-whites, pastels, yellows, oranges, pinks, vivid reds, crimson, purple, nearly true-blue, and fabulous blends. Many people are familiar with only the common yellow or orange daylilies which are often seen along roadsides. These daylilies are cultivated forms of the wild types of daylilies which have “escaped” and are growing as if they are wild. All the modern daylilies have been developed through a complicated history of hybridization among these and other wild types.


Source: http://www.daylilies.org/AHSFAQsNew.html#whatis

Growing daylilies

Daylilies are rugged, adaptable, vigorous perennials that endure in a garden for many years with little or no care. Daylilies adapt to a wide range of soil and light conditions. They establish quickly, grow vigorously, and survive winters with little or no injury.

group of orange flowersFigure 1. Daylilies typically grow one to four feet in height and produce numerous flower buds that are showy over a long period.

Daylilies belong to the genus Hemerocallis and are not true lilies. This Greek word is made up of two parts: hemera meaning day and kallos meaning beauty. The name is appropriate, since each flower lasts only one day. Some of the newer varieties have flowers that open in the evening and remain open until the evening of the following day. Many of these night blooming plants are delightfully fragrant.

group of yellow flowersFigure 2. Daylilies are hardy perennials that grow well in Minnesota.

Each daylily plant produces an abundance of flower buds that open over a long period of time. There are many varieties, a wide range of flower colors, and the flowers continue during the heat of the summer.

Daylilies are useful in the perennial flower border, planted in large masses, or as a ground cover on slopes, where they form a dense mat in just a few years.

Site and soil

Daylilies grow best in full sun. They will tolerate light shade, but flower best with a minimum of six hours of direct sun. Light shade during the hottest part of the day keeps the flowers fresh. Daylilies should not be planted near trees and shrubs that are likely to compete for moisture and nutrients.

Although daylilies are adaptable to most soils, they do best in a slightly acidic, moist soil that is high in organic matter and well drained.

Planting

diagram showing roots of plant below groundFigure 3. A properly planted daylily.

Daylilies can be planted almost any time the soil can be worked. Till the soil deeply before planting. Work in well-rotted manure or compost to increase organic matter. Apply fertilizer based on a soil test. Contact your local Extension office for soil test information. Dig a hole large enough for the roots without bending or crowding them.

The best time to transplant or divide plants is early spring or immediately after flowering. Plants divided in the spring may not bloom the same summer. Divisions should have two to three stems or fans of leaves with all roots attached. Make divisions by digging the entire plant and gently pulling the fans apart. Cut the foliage back, leaving only five or six inches. Place the plant in the soil so the crown (the portion where the stem and root meets) is one inch below the ground line. Water thoroughly after planting. A winter mulch of straw or shredded leaves helps ensure against winter injury for unestablished plants.

Daylilies are vigorous growers and can be divided every three to four years.

Culture

In early spring, before growth starts, remove the dead foliage from the previous year’s growth and any weeds. A summer mulch helps eliminate or ease the unpleasant task of weeding. Perennial grasses can be difficult to eradicate if they become established within the clumps.

Although daylilies tolerate drought, they perform best in moist, but well-drained soils. One inch of water weekly is ideal, more frequent watering may be necessary on sandy soils.

Remove seed pods after bloom to prevent seed production. Plants producing seed are likely to have fewer flowers the following year.

Insect control measures usually are not necessary. Aphids and thrips sometimes feed on the flower buds. These pests can be controlled with insecticidal soaps or a repeated strong spray of water.

Annual fertilization may be helpful in producing more flowers. A spring application of manure or compost is beneficial each year.

Cultivars

More than 35,000 daylilies have been named, officially registered, and marketed. Many newly developed plants are introduced annually. Because of their scarcity, some of these new varieties sell for $100 or more, but there are many beautiful, modern cultivars available at reasonable prices. Specialty nurseries often carry thousands of different cultivars. The great majority of new cultivars are developed in southern regions of the United States. Minnesota’s short growing season requires cultivars that are adapted to grow quickly and still survive the long, cold winter.

Daylilies were traditionally plants that stopped growing and became dormant throughout the winter, but today there are semi-evergreen and evergreen cultivars. The first evergreen types were not hardy in the north, but with new introductions there are evergreen and semi-evergreen cultivars that are hardy and will grow and bloom well in Minnesota.

Another new characteristic is the ability to rebloom, or to bear more than one blooming scape per fan of leaves. To date, these reblooming cultivars are not successful in Minnesota due to the short growing season. Another guide to flower number is the bud count per scape or flowering stem. Stella de Oro is a cultivar known for numerous buds or flowers per scape.

Established daylily clumps often produce 200–400 flowers in a season. Bloom time extends from early to late summer. Each plant blooms for 30–40 days. With the large number of cultivars available, it is possible to have continuous bloom throughout the summer.

Daylily flowers come in many colors, shades, and color combinations. Some are very full and round, others have wide petals with ruffled edges and borders. Others, called spiders, are spidery in shape; doubles have double the number of petals and sepals. Many are nocturnal and very fragrant and other cultivars have branched flower scapes.

Daylilies are regional performers which means they grow well only in certain parts of the country, usually over three hardiness zones. For this reason, you should purchase daylilies from a local nursery, a nursery within the state, or a nursery in a neighboring state. If possible, visit a private or public garden such as the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum or a nursery that features daylilies to see which varieties grow in this area and select the ones you like.

The following daylilies are just a few of those that do well in Minnesota, but there are many new cultivars that are equally good.

Apricot or peach-colored Bertie Ferris
Calumet
Doll House
Dress Circle
Little Rainbow
Naomi Ruth
Ruffled Apricot
Bicolor Addie Branch Smith
Becky Lynn
Bold One
Chicago Picotee Queen
Close Up
Frans Hals
Karen Sue
Painted Lady
Sea Warrior
Shady Lady
Siloam Bo Peep
Siloam Virginia Henson
Toma
Gold Golden Chimes
Golden Gift
Golden Milestone
Golden Prize
Golden Trinkets
Ringlets
Stella de Oro
Lavender to purple Chicago Knobby
Little Grapette
Little Lassie
Mountain Violet
Prairie Blue Eyes
Russian Rhapsody
Sebastian
Summer Wine
Two Bits
Velvet Shadows
Weathermaster
Orange Bertie Ferris
By Myself
Carrot Top
Condilla
Leprechauns Wealth
Pixie Parasol
Rocket City
Sombrero Way
Pink Barbara Mitchell, sev*
Cathrine Woodbury
Chicago Candy Cane
Evelyn Claar
Fairy Tale Pink, sev*
Halls Pink
Lullaby Baby, sev*
Mariska
Siloam Double Classic
Wind Frills, ev**
Windsor Castle
Red Carey Quinn
Chicago
Blackout
Hearts Afire
Oriental Ruby
Premier
Red Mittens
Riley Barron
Sigudilla
White and near white Crispin
Ice Carnival
Joan Senior, ev**
May, May, sev*
Serene Madonna
So Lovely
Yellow Bitsy
Brocaded Gown, sev*
Golden Prize
Happy Returns
Hortensia
Hyperion
Jay
Lemon Lollypop
Mary Todd
Mini Stella
Paradise Prince
Prairie Moonlight
Raindrop
So Sweet, ev**
Winning Ways
sev* = semi-evergreen; ev** = evergreen

Special thanks to Norman Baker, owner of Northstar Nurseries, and Julius Wadekamper for their assistance in compiling this fact sheet and cultivar list.


Source: http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/flowers/growing-daylilies/